Understanding Watch Condition: What do the experts look for?
When a watch arrives at Vintage Cash Cow, our experts look beyond the brand name. The true story of a watch (and much of its value) is told by its condition. But in the world of vintage timepieces, "condition" can be complicated. What one person sees as damage, an expert might see as valuable "patina."
Here's what our horology team looks for.
Expert insight:
Alongside household brands like Rolex and Omega, we enjoy discovering niche or lesser-known watchmakers. These pieces are often the most intriguing; despite lacking mainstream recognition, they can hold significant value under the right conditions.
A niche brand often becomes highly desirable if it was:
- Linked to a public figure: worn by a notable individual or celebrity, which naturally drives collectibility and market demand.
- Featured in popular media: appearing in a film or television series, bringing renewed attention to the model.
- Associated with a historic era: connected to a specific cultural moment that resonates with collectors.
Vintage Enicar is a standout example, particularly the Sherpa Diver models. These watches have a dedicated following due to their distinct design, reliable movements and the brand’s link to mid-century exploration. Despite being less mainstream, certain Enicar pieces command impressive prices due to their rarity, unique styling and growing reputation among collectors.
Ultimately, niche brands often provide the most compelling stories and the most surprising values in the horological world.
Patina vs. damage
This is the most important distinction in the vintage world.
Patina: This is the natural, graceful ageing of a watch. It's the history of the piece. This can include an even fading on the dial (sometimes called a "tropical" dial), the gentle ageing of the luminous markers, or minor, even wear. In many cases, a beautiful, original patina can make a watch more valuable to collectors than one that has been restored.
Damage: This is harm that detracts from the watch's value. This includes deep scratches or cracks on the watch crystal (the glass), rust or water marks on the dial, heavy dings on the case, or a non-functional movement due to impact.
Original vs. aftermarket parts
A watch is most valuable when it is "all original." This means its hands, dial, crown, and bracelet are the same ones it left the factory with.
A common issue we see is a watch that has been repaired with "aftermarket" (non-official) parts. This can significantly lower its value. Our experts will check all components to see if they are original to the watch's make and model, which helps establish its true collector value.
Should I get it repaired before selling?
Our expert advice is almost always NO.
We often see watches that have been damaged by well-intentioned but unqualified repairs. A bad polish can ruin the sharp, original lines of a watch case, and an improper "cleaning" can wipe away valuable patina, destroying its history and value.
Let our experts see it in its original, untouched state. They are trained to see the potential and value in a watch, even with its flaws.
Expert insight:
Some common mistakes to avoid when selling and ensure you get the best possible outcome for your timepiece, here are a few key pitfalls to avoid:
- Discarding the box & papers: never throw these away! They hold significant importance. Not only do they help us authenticate the item faster, but having the original packaging and documentation adds tangible market value to the watch.
- Confusing monetary vs. sentimental value: This is a difficult but important distinction. We often recommend that if an item holds deep sentimental value (perhaps it was passed down through generations) you might regret letting it go. We advise selling only when you are ready to part with the item for its market price, rather than its emotional worth.
Let Our Experts Assess Your Watch's True Condition. Get Your Free Pack
Andy Hepworth bio
Andy Hepworth is a Watch and Timepiece Specialist with over 20 years of experience in the industry. As an expert for Vintage Cash Cow, he specialises in the appraisal of both watches and clocks, ranging from everyday vintage items to high-end luxury brands.
Andy is passionate about the diversity of items he encounters, stating, “What I love about working with vintage watches is seeing all of the rare and unique pieces.” Professionally, he considers the classic, vintage Rolex to be an unbeatable standard in the field. He works as part of a wider team of specialists to ensure that every item sent in receives a fair and expert valuation.